Travel Journal: Beyond the Ashram
A birds eye view from the accommodation building I stayed in at ‘Ammas’, Amritapuri Ashram in Kerala. The entire complex is set in a serene location, situated between the Arabian Sea and backwaters of the Kollam district. The beachside access is a frontier of coconut tree-lined road, defining the borderline of individuals steeped in spiritual study, the sparkling wild seashore and local life of the small fishing village. On several occasions my strolls outside the ashram grounds had given me opportunity to distance myself enough to ‘zoom-in and out’ beyond the ritual rhythm of the ashram Schedule. To see the ashram in different positions allowed for a fresh and grounding perspective while noticing the effects of my experience within the vicinity of the spiritual leaders birthplace and home. October, 2023.
Kerala, India
“ A belief obtained through telling, hearing and reading will not last long. Whereas, the faith gained from experience will last forever. ” - Amma
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I could not have forseen or anticipated the diverse encounters had during a week-long stay at Amma’s Ashram, nor had I counted on actually coming across the spiritual leader herself in-person whilst there. An apparently opportune moment to do so as Amma’s schedule sees her away from the ashram HQ to travel for most part of a year. It was through the daily ‘darshan’ ( In Hindi Darshan means, ‘to view or visit a holy person/place through the eyes of a devotee’ ) where I found myself held in a strong embrace from the famous ‘hugging saint’…twice (!) A little more on that later.
The first time I had come across the name and work of Sri Mata Amritanandamayi (a widely celebrated female Indian Guru - known as ‘Amma’, affectionately meaning ‘Mother’ ) was a decade prior to my visit thanks to a well crafted episode of documentary series ‘Weird Weekends’ by British-American journalist Louis Theroux (that particular segment focused on Indian gurus). It wasn’t until my arrival in India where I was to again come across the work of Amma. On multiple occasions by fellow teachers and travellers I had heard that a visit to the Amritapuri Ashram was to be added to their itineraries or, had already been experienced - whereby a gentle suggestion that I also make my way should I be curious enough to do so was also insisted. During this second visit to India I was working with an ayurveda retreat so I wasn’t focused on venturing far for domestic travel or spiritual pilgrimage. Though taking into account the many eye-opening ‘initiations’ into how the reality of time and plans work out in the vast, intense and sacred sphere that India encapsulates during my first visit several months before - this round my approach welcomed the wise workings of Mother Indias rhythm that had seemed to weave her own threads of where and when one must go and who one comes across.
My visit to Amritapuri would come to be my fourth ashram experience in India. One that would provide me with newfound angles to observe another layer of what it means to build and manage ones’ own daily agenda. This was a period that followed after a vipassana meditation course in the Blue mountains of Australia. This had served as another reminder of how powerful an individuals focused attention is and how it can be refined to be an ally - most valuable inner resource. It was an entirely new environment where the muscles of my naturally wandering mind could be observed whilst in company of a larger network of organisation at play pulsing through the daily on-site activities and duties performed at Ammas.
It was through this lens that the reality of ashram life was shaped and formed right before me. I hadn’t arrived with a particular expectation of experience, this was the first time I was visiting the home and headquarters of an organisation led by a living Saint. I had come with an intention of taking it one day at a time, to observe the nuances of expression of long-time visitors and devotees encountered on-site before committing to a timeframe of stay…It had turned out to be a week-long window, one that flew by very quickly.
I remember feeling daily an odd sense of excitement, one that stemmed from noticing a depth of intimacy with the process of studying deeper into the teachings I had become familiar with in the context of yoga philosophy and meditation. Because of the spaciousness in the daily ashram schedule in addition to the sheer size of the grounds, I could see that every person had their own timeline and tasks for their day - It was as if I had been transported back in time to my university days. I could see how intricate and dynamic the inner workings of the larger scale organisation of Amma’s worldwide mission and spiritual home was functioning as ; a spiritual school, place of sacred devotion for pilgrims, the heart and hub where creating resources to spread the message of Amma required its own leaders of logistics.
I found that even though there was ample space and time to practice ones’ own sadhana (self-practice) in private, there were also many enriching opportunities to live and learn through contribution via organised daily tasks distributed upon request for seva/karma yoga. The first task assigned was handed to me on a small white piece of paper that had read [ Your seva position : Rolling pizzas at the cafe bakery (past the coconut stall) Please ring the bell ! 15-16:30 ]. Admittedly it was a shock surprise as previous experiences almost always tasked me with cleaning toilets (!) Pizza rolling + people was a nice change, adding to the first impressions that there was going to be a more culinary diverse approach to ashram meal offerings. That said, the ashrams services and facilities in itself were surprisingly extensive, modern and made for many levels of comfort so to leave little room for desire to visit off-site establishments. For example with dining choices that ranged from ; canteen setting served local dishes included with board, to more innovative plant-based cantinas offering treats for an extra cost, to free chai carts and added extra smoothie stalls - almost everything vegetarian friendly was available. A spectrum of service needs are accessibly catered for such as ; a natural health store, musical instrument store, bookstore, hospital, health centre, pharmacy, souvenir and ashram memorabilia store, stalls selling worn and blessed objects by Amma, and many places to purchase any kind of practice or sadhana ritual. I found these provisions heavily considered international visitors, ensuring the presence of amenities had also catered for additional comforts commonly standardised by those living abroad in ‘the west’. I could see why ; some people had visited and never wanted to leave, why some choose to become permanent residents, how some expats found a spiritually focused approach to their retirement plan, and yet I could also see how discerning / skeptical visitors could find it an alarmingly odd disassociated world in itself to live in a ‘spiritual growth-centred bubble’. Nevertheless, the nuanced treasures of insight and nourishment ashrams can provide is to be subjectively determined by the heart and soul of the seeker.
The general guiding ethical principles of an ashram and of Ammas work is rooted upon the teachings of Vedanta and Sankhya Yoga philosophies, influencing the structure of the schedule itself. Participating in such activities like karma yoga and the evening satsang highlights this, as personal discourses from students and devotees are shared - often referencing their own experiences in relation to teachings from Amma, andThe Bhagavad Gita (a Hindu spiritual text that reads as a sacred poem).
Thankfully for many visitors, even if someone is not familiar or does not seek to follow any ‘teachings’ or ‘philosophies,’ it does not matter to Amma or the Ashrams registrars. As shared and embodied by Amma, her message as a spiritual leader is to spread the importance of connecting to Love. Amma happens to apply this in her own unique way - through the physical gesture of hugging ‘the whole world’ regardless of an individuals background or religion (* Amma has hugged up to 40 million people worldwide). Amma is renowned for offering blessings through her Darshans, where she expresses unconditional love to all who seek her embrace. This often times encompasses hours and hours and hours of hugging and swift consoling without a break.
It was on the first evening of my arrival that I was recommended to obtain a token for my ‘darshan’, and where I found myself in-line the very same evening for a saintly hug. As I sat along the chairs that led to the seat of Amma I could see the expectations, excitement, relief and much more that people were carrying with them into that moment. I found most people were really in their own bubble of experience. There was very little small-talk around within the noticeably sincere and humble atmosphere, where ripple-effects of the fact that one was willing to wait for 120 minutes + for a hug was palpable in the air… It was a strange and new feeling to be part of this gravitational pull of people drawing closer to the on-stage chair of Amma.
The lingering curiosity and openness to the occasion had me noticing such small yet highly systematised details of how many helpers were needed in order to smoothly process hundreds and hundreds of hugs in an orderly fashion. I must say that the prospect of receiving a nurturing hug at the time was beautiful, and provided me with a releasing exhale in itself considering the amount of energy was usually required to maintain firm boundaries and personal space in such a busy and bustling environment outside the ashram walls - especially as a solo traveller. A nourishing hug from a living saint seemed like an appropriate source of respectful and loving touchpoint with another - as if Amma herself was the overflowing spiritual reservoir I could fill my own cup with. The idea of replenishing my ‘cup’ through this whole experience had made my resolve stronger. I considered to see that a hug from Amma was just one of the many catalysts offered, serving a greater reminder for us all to notice the ways in which our ‘cup’ was to be filled or depleted by lifestyle habits, practices and environments one finds themselves engaging with. Listening to the experiences of others through the evening discourses had given me another perspective of how an ashram can be approached. To replenish the cup of ones’ spirit, mind and body’s vitality at a center for spirituality, is like an energetic recharge where once full is then ready to again implement clarity gained, and have courage to connect / to share outside again, at work with those around us in the real world.
It turns out one hug from Amma was not enough (!) as three or four days later I found myself moving along the snaking ladder of chairs that eventually led on-stage again ready to kneel down for an Amma embrace. Throughout the days after my initial hug, it was clear that a hug from Amma could be just as powerful as receiving a generous hug from a dear loved one. The faces of the many people who I had seen struggling in hardship (throughout my travels/life) was coming to surface as I waited, to acknowledge that a hug could be a saving grace for someone who may never have received one or neither has access to someone who is purely giving a gesture that asks for nothing in return could be a reality shaking and awakening moment that many of us could possibly take for granted ? Maybe a hug from Amma could be a healing encounter, exemplifying a form of love in action… that one could then work with and cultivate further from then on.
As with most impactful experiences, ashram living is an experience to be had and not one made to mentally unpack and figure out beforehand. To anyone who is curious I will write what I have shared with friends and family asking me “what is it like at an Ashram?” … I almost always mention the parallels I see it having with a fitness gym - but moreso as a ‘spiritual gym.’ A space where instead of working directly with equipment made to enhance physical capacities of conditioning or strengthening the muscles and mobility of the body, it could be more of an approach centred on engaging and strengthening the more ‘subtle bodies’ of mind-body-spirit not as ease-fully focused in on through daily at-home life. I would also add that an ashram is a layered space that encourages exploring values that can be seen as common universal principles ie ; respecting the nature of learning higher knowledge, contributing through heart-led actions in community, and infusing ones’ day with a commitment to whatever their personal goal of practice may be.
What fed my mind and soul the most during this stay ? It was the evening Satsang (a discourse led by Amma providing an uplifting and thought provoking platform for discussions and questions to be shared by multiple residents / guests) +Bhajans (uplifting singing and playing of music ). It was especially fun considering the Keralan main language of Malayalam was an option to chant with. Challenging the muscles of mind and tongue can bring laughter and lightness to what could be seen as a foreign or impossible to understand experience :) !
Depending on personal intentions visiting an ashram is as unique of an experience just as is the chosen ashram is in itself. To note - ashram schedules and offerings differ from one another (depending on the philosophy / Guru / the lifestyle habits the Ashram aims to offer and educate) ; they can have a more tightly structured schedule, while others have a not so filled schedule to support a those requiring a more inward focus. Choosing to visit an ashram can be a supportive way to understand what health /happiness/ living a meaningful life mean to you. Attending classes or gatherings offer a chance to participate and question ‘unfamiliar’ yet interesting territory - and are offered as windows of experimentation for an individual to understand themselves a little more alongside a chance to question or unpack the teachings a little more. Common ashram practices that give clarity or insight of ones’ mental / emotional /physical state include ; attending spiritual philosophy lectures, postural/breath-based yoga practices, nature-based ritual/ceremony centred gatherings, group meditations, seva/karma yoga (allocating a window of time to join a volunteer group /task that benefits more than ones’ own experience) and of course time for oneself to integrate through rest and relaxation.
With an open itinerary and no time restraints I could have found comfort in the rhythm and scheduled life at Amritapuri. Though, it was from the moment when I decided it was time to leave the ashram that had brought a sense of contentment. Just as I had sensed in my body the curiosity that was driving me to visit this unknown place, I had also sensed a call to action, to measure the volition all that had inspired me and to do something with it. It was time to be out in the world again, to navigate my trusted ‘inner compass’ restored and recalibrated via the intensive weeklong Sadhana. I must mention that it was through small windows of consistent daily encounters with kindred spirits during my stay, that had contributed to my readiness to depart. One such encounter was with a friendly, up-beat self-proclaimed spiritual cynic from England, who had a passion in their work as an architect/mental health professional/kitchen sushi maker assistant (!) For them the Ashram and pace of India was playing like a unique off-beat tune that they had never experienced. An experience that was bringing them more questions than expected answers they were seeking. Though they had spent a few days at the ashram so far, they were curious to stay a little longer than planned. It made it clear that sometimes refining ones’ own question alongside a listening ear can be part of the answer in itself. To have bouts of thoughtful company while ‘figuring’ it out can have the effect of deeply enriching the ‘answer’ hunting for many of us. Thankfully having the chance to listen to a different perspective through the eyes of someone else having a first time ‘same experience’ can be helpful in discerning and unpacking all that is transforming inside. It is through having conversations of this nature that both inspire just as much as challenge, yet sometimes one just needs to hear a little ‘lyrical note’ from another, that inevitably leads them closer towards the entire song they venture in seeking to dance and sing themselves.
With many simple yet practical words of wisdom Amma advocates and inspires people to apply and actualise, one sentiment comes to mind from a discussion board during satsang …“ A belief obtained through telling, hearing and reading will not last long. Whereas, the faith gained from experience will last forever. ”
This sentiment captures the essence of what I observed to be a consistent element of Ammas teachings both in word and action - woven through all her work. One that encourages individuals to connect to a source of love residing within their internal reservoir. A sentiment that advocates for each person to gather and gain energy from an unshakebale self-belief that grows when learning through living the ‘answers’ of direct experiences. To listen and learn is a beautiful stepping stone, yet to have faith in oneself requires an intimacy cultivated through the transformative process that change, chance and challenge may bring. A process whereby the by-product can lead an individual to tap into their own inner resources in order to ignite, motivate and mobilise whatever it is they want to sustain and see through.
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Travel Journal on Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram can be read » Travel Journal: The Temple Within
Hari Om.
